Written Instructions with accompanying video for anyone who wants to make a basic pant exactly to your measurements! Please get your correct measurements before you begin from How to Take Your Measurements.
Note: Solid lines are the final cutting lines. Dotted lines are only for reference.
Part 1: Starting
- Draw a rectangle as follows: From point 1 to point 2 half the hip measurement. From point 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 the desired pant length. Connect point 3 to 4.
- From point 1 towards point 2 apply ¼ the hip circumference and mark it as point 5.
- From point 3 towards point 4 do the same as in the previous step and mark point 6. Connect points 5 and 6 with a straight line.
- From point 1 towards 3 and 2 towards 4 apply the hip drop (points 7 and 8), front crotch (points 9 and 10), and knee level (points 11 and 12). Connect each set of points with a dotted line. These lines are for reference.
- Mark the the points where the horizontal dotted lines intersect the vertical center line (starting from the top) as points "a", "b" and "c".
Part 2: Front Pattern
- From 2 towards 8 go down 2.5 cm and mark point 13.
- From 13 towards the center of the rectangle measure in 2.5 cm and mark point 14.
- From 14 to the horizontal line connecting 1 and 2 apply ¼ waist measurement and mark point 15.
- Connect point 15 with point "a" with a dotted line.
- Find the center point of the segment 15-a and measure out 0.5 cm on the perpendicular.
- Draw the hip curve (in a solid line) connecting points 15 and a passing through the new point.
- From point 10 draw a line to the right applying the front crotch measurement. Mark that point 16. The front crotch measurement is calculated as follows: 15% of ¼ the hip measurement.
- From point 10 draw a 45º line measuring 1.5 cm.
- To draw the front crotch connect points 14 and 8 with a straight line and from point 8 to 16 with a curve passing through the very end of the 45º line.
- Connect points 16 and 12 with a dotted line. Find the center between these and raise a squared line 0.5 cm (as in step 5).
- Draw the inseam by connecting points 16 and 12 with a curve passing through the end of the line.
- From c towards 12 mark point d 3 cm in and apply the same distance from point 6 towards 4 to create point e.
- Draw the front side by connecting points a-b-d-e.
- Connect points 12 and 4 and finish the front pattern connecting the hemline points e with 4.
Part 3: Back Pattern
- From 1 towards 5 apply 2.5 cm and mark point 17.
- From 17 move upwards 2.5 cm and mark point 18.
- From 18 to the top line (1-2) apply ¼ the waist measurement + 2 cm and mark that point 19.
- Connect point 19 to point a with a dotted line.
- Measure to the center of segment 19-a, and square a 0.5 cm line outward (towards the right) .
- Draw the hip curve connecting 19 to a passing through the end of the new line.
- From point 7 towards point 1 apply 2.5 cm ad mark point 20.
- From point 9 towards the left draw a line applying the back crotch measurement, which is calculated as: 45% of ¼ hip circumference or front crotch multiplied by 3. The end of that line is point 23.
- Mark the center point between points 18 and 19 and and mark it point 21.
- Draw a perpendicular line about 5 cms long from point 21 and mark the end point 22. Mark off 1 cm to either side of point 21 and connect two more straight lines from point 22 to these forming a dart which is 2 cms in depth.
- Draw a line about 4.5 cms long from point 9 at a 45º angle.
- Draw the back crotch by connecting points 18 to 20 with a straight line and from point 20 to 23 with a curve passing through the end of the new line.
- From point 11 to outside the rectangle mark 2 cm (point f). Apply the same distance from point 3 outwards (point g).
- Connect the points 23 and f. In the middle of this segment raise a short 0.5 cm line.
- Draw the inseam 23 to f again with a slight curve which passes through the new point.
- From c towards 11 apply 1 cm (point h).
- Mark the same distance from point 6 towards point 3 (point i).
- Draw the side connecting points a-b-h-i.
- Connect points f and g and finish the back pattern by connecting the hemline points g and i.
- Confirm that the distance between points 16 and 12 and points 23 and f match. If the back inseam is longer simply move point 23 down accordingly and redraw the inseam.
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16 Comments
Love this. Thank you!
Finally!!!! thanks guys.
very usefull ! Thank you !
i like this
Thank you so much for this series! I'm watching your video, but was thrilled to find these notes. I hate to bring this up, but I can't read most of the numbers on the graphic. Is there any way to make them darker? Or are these common graphics and I could find the graphic somewhere else?: Thanks so much.
some additions:
step 2.7: mark the new point 16
step 2.12: point c is not yet defined here. I gather it must be where 5-6 and 11-12 intersect.
step 2.13: point b is not yet defined here. I gather it must be where 5-6 and 9-10 intersect.
step 3.5: is this line running in or out?
step 3.8: mark the new point 23
I made a straight forward software program based uopn this description. See How to Draft a Basic Pant Pattern Automated
i am having problems seeing the numbering on the pattern can anyone help
I like this
I lyk, it's useful
well done
oh my God ,Thanks a lot for the tutorial ...
I read the how to take your measurements page, but I'm still confused about the hip drop. Also the automated program did not draft all the lines.
How do I calculate the hip drop?
Thanks!
Adeline, I believe the hip drop is measured by sitting in a hard flat chair and placing a ruler next to the body. it is the measurement from the base of the chair to your waist. There is another video on this site that states that. Good Luck - my pattern came out a tad wonky and I will have to make alterations for sure.
Love this pattern and want to use it but despite having stitched a few garments and having made darts on a fitted blouse I'm still a novice. Therefore I need sewing instructions for this or a very similar looking pattern. I'm glad to find this because I have no access to readymade patterns of any kind but I will struggle trying to figure out how to cut and stitch it.
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