Unlock the secret to clothing design. If you can draft and sew a basic bodice you can design virtually any kind of t-shirt, blouse or other top! Attach a skirt and you now have a dress! Take your measurements by using the guide in the " How to Take Your Measurements" section and let´s get started! If you would rather just whip up an easier beginners t-shirt go to How to Design a Quick T-Shirt.
BACK BODICE PATTERN:
- Draw a rectangle using the following measurements. Be sure to leave at least a 3 cm margin around the rectangle. Point 1 to 2 = ¼ bust circumference - 1 cm + 0.5 cm (for ease). Points 1 to 3 = back length. Now close off the rectangle making sure it is perfectly squared (each corner should be a 90º angle).
- From Points 3 to 5 and 4 to 6 mark the side length measurement. Connect points 5 and 6 with a straight line.
- From Points 1 to 8 and 5 to 7 mark half the back width. Connect points 8 and 7 with a straight line.
- From Point 1 to 9 mark down about 1.5 to 2 cms. From Point 1 to 10 mark one-tenth the waist measurement. Connect point 9 to 10 with a slight curve. This is the neckhole for the bodice.
- From Point 8 down to 11 mark 4.5cm. Draw a straight line from point 10 to 11 overshooting 11 by 0.5 cm. That slight overshoot will be Point 12.
- Mark up 3 cms from Point 7 to 13. Now connect Points 6, 13 and 12 with a curve. This is the armhole for your bodice.
- From Point 3 to 14 mark 9,5 cms.
- From Point 14 to 15 mark a perpendicular line 15 cms long. Mark 1.5 cms to either side of point 14 and connect both these points to point 15 with straight lines. This will be the back dart.
- From Point 3 to 16 mark ¼ of the waist measurement - 1cm + 3cm - 0.5. Connect Points 6 to 16 with a straight line.
FRONT BODICE PATTERN
- Draw a rectangle using the following measurements: Point 1 to 2 = ¼ bust measurement + 1cm + 0.5 cm (for ease). Point 1 to 3 = front waist length. Now close off the rectangle making sure it is perfectly squared (each corner should be a 90º angle). Note: this rectangle is NOT the same size as the one for the back pattern. It is probably a bit longer and wider.
- From Point 3 to 5 and 4 to 6 mark the side length. Connect points 5 and 6 with a straight line.
- From Point 2 to 8 and 6 to 7 mark in 5 cms. Connect point 7 to 8 with a straight line.
- From Point 7 to 9 mark up 6 cms.
- From Point 1 to 10 apply one-tenth the waist measurement + 1 cm. From Point 1 to 11 apply one-tenth the waist measurement. Connect points 10 to 11 with a curve. This is the front neckhole.
- From Point 2 to 12 move down 9 cms. Connect point 11 to 12 with a straight line.
- From Point 5 to 13 mark ½ the bust separation.
- From Point 11 to 14 mark down 5 cms. Then from Point 14 move down another 6 cms and mark that Point 15. Connect both points 14 and 15 to point 13 using straight lines. (This is the front dart, 6 cms deep.)
- From Point 3 to 16 mark in to the same measurement as 5 to 13. Draw a vertical line Point 16 to 17. This line should be 15 cms long.
- Mark 1.5 cms to either side of point 16 and connect both those points to point 17. This is the waist dart.
- From Point 3 to 18 apply ¼ waist +1 cm + 3 cms + 0.5 cms. Connect Point 18 to 6 with a straight line.
- Connect Points 12, 9 and 6 witha curve. This is the armhole.
- Cut out the pattern EXCEPT leave the 3 cm margin at the top shoulder. Close the shoulder dart, folding the flap in the back towards the armhole. Tape it shut then redraw the shoulder line. Cut straight across the new shoulder line. (Explained in Lesson 2).
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8 Comments
Great explanation! - I just wish you had really made a basic t-shirt, instead of already doing this special stuff - for a beginner that's kind of confusing, plus you don't get to see how the basic pattern actually turns out.
You keep writing cm, do you mean inches? I think you do mean cm, but if it is in c, are all the measurements in cm including busts and stuff or in inches?
I just used inches and cms. It came out well. Thank you very much!
Please what does -1cm+0.5cm in the step 1 of the back bodice mean? Why not just say plus 0.5cm. Similarly in step 9 and other subsequent steps. Thank you.
Apart from those, I found this reeeeeaaally helpful.
Thank you very much.
I'm doing something wrong, but I don't know what the fuck I'm doing wrong. And it's infuriating, because I have no one to help me. I've never made a dress before.
Apparently my body must be out of proportion or something because it's just not working. Plus I know I'm just an absolute idiot and can't do anything right, especially maths.
Can you be more specific? I might be able to help you troubleshoot the problem. This pattern is probably good if you're pretty close to an "average" build, but otherwise it may need some tweaking. (For instance, if you're busty then following these instructions exactly will put the armholes too far forward. On the other hand, if you're flat-chested, the shoulder dart might be too big, which would make the shoulder itself too narrow.)
Hey guys! I think I figured out what she meant by:
-1cm +0.5cm
Perhaps it simply got switched around by accident, and what it REALLY means is this:
+1cm -0.5cm.
In other words, "use your best judgement and decide how much ease you're going to add. Add at LEAST half a cm and at MOST one full cm.
I chose 1 full cm since I'm eventually using this block for a jacket, and jackets need more ease than shirts.
I suppose if I am wrong, she can correct me.
I have drafted the basic shift pattern as per your instructions. Do I need to add seam allowance to it when I cut it out?
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