A well designed sleeve is very important to creating a top or jacket that fits comfortably. Get your correct measurements before you begin. Please view the following step-by-step instructions and accompanying video and diagram to create the basic sleeve.
Measure the arm openings straight across from point to point on both the front and back basic bodice pattern. Add the two numbers together and then divide by 2. This result will be the width of the rectangle you will draw to begin drafting the sleeve.
The paper you use to draft the sleeve should be twice as wide as the result you obtained in step one and longer than the length of the desired sleeve plus at least an inch or two more on all sides in order to leave room for seam allowances.
Fold the piece of draft paper in half. When placed down on a flat surface the folded side should be facing left.
At the top of the paper starting from the folded edge draw a horizontal line (point 1 to 2) the length of the result obtained in step one.
From point 2 to point 3 draw the length of the sleeve perpendicular to the first line.
From point 3 to point 4 draw a line parallel to the top one, ending at the folded edge.
From point 1 towards point 2 measure in 2.5 cm (1 inch) and indicate that as point 5.
With a tape measure obtain the measurement of the the complete arm openings of the basic bodice. This means use the tape measure to follow along the curve of the armholes to obtain the entire measurement.
Subtratct 2 cm (¾ inch) from the measurement obtained in step 8 then divide that number by 2. Using a straight edge ruler measure from point 5 the length of that result. Move the ruler up or down until that number is touching the vertical line between points 2 and 3. Mark that as point 6.
Measure from point 2 to point 6 and mark the same measurement point exactly across on the folded edge. Mark point 7. Draw a horizontal line to connect point 6 to point 7.
Measure 8 cms (approx. 3 ¾ inches) up the diagonal line from point 6 towards point 5. Mark that as point 8.
With a square ruler mark down from point 8 2 cms (¾ inch). Mark this point 9.
Following along the diagonal line, measure down 1.5 cm (½ inch) from point 8 towards point 6. Mark the stopping point as number 10.
Again using the square ruler, mark a line perpendicular to the diagonal down 1 cm (slightly less than a ½ inch) from point 10. This is point 11.
Starting from point 8 moving up the diagonal line towards point 5 stop at 5.5 cm (2? inches ) and mark it point A.
Moving up from point A another 1.5 cm (slightly more than a ½ inch) mark point B.
Now with a freehand curve connect points in the following order 1-5-B-9-6. This is for the front armhole of the sleeve.
Using a different color pencil connect 1-5-A-11-6, also using a freehand curve. This is for the back armhole of the sleeve.
Starting at point 4 traveling along the line in the direction of point 3 stop at half the circumference of your clenched fist. (This is to be sure you will have enough room to get your hand through) Mark this point 12.
Connect point 6 to point 12. Halfway between 6 and 12 mark point 13. Move in 1 cm and mark a perpendicular point 14. Freehand soft curve 6-14-12.
Using a toothed wheel (or if you don't have one find something that will press hard enough to leave an imprint onto the paper folded to the back) trace the following points which outline the front sleeve: 1-5-B-9-6-14-12-4.
Unfold the pattern and draw in the lines of the front sleeve using the imprint as your guide. The sleeve pattern is asymmetrical. Now cut out the base pattern